Leroy is proof that you don’t need levels upon levels of refinement to get a Michelin star. Others who followed suit, albeit earlier, were the likes of Barrafina, Sabor, The Dairy (now closed) in SW London, and conceivably Portland too. So there’s no general ornateness like silver service or white tablecloths; instead, the emphasis here is a radiant wine list, music through vinyl, clever cooking, and the notion that a mark of good dishes is finishing them and still wanting more. Well, I hope all restaurants aim to feed like this, and let’s call it a Parisian bistro right bang-smack in the middle of Shoreditch. The Michelin-starred spot was once hailed in Hackney Fields under the name “Ellory,” also a Michelin-starred restaurant, before they closed in March 2018 and reopened in October 2018 as Leroy. Big sash windows mean lots of natural light, there’s a quartz bar made for perching, and an open kitchen for theatrics. I feel right at home.
Leroy closed in November 2024 after a celebrated run. The space was taken over by Simon Shand and Alex Grant, who opened Duchy in May 2025. Duchy preserves much of Leroy’s aesthetic and spirit, but with new culinary inspiration rooted in the cuisine of the Duchy of Savoy. We can call it Leroy remixed.
The innocently named bread and butter £3.50 is in fact some of the best in Shoreditch right now, or perhaps I enjoyed it more than anyone else, though that might be the feral carb fiend in me talking.
Smoked mackerel £11 comes with medallion-gold skin and the unapologetic funk of oily fish as it should. There’s a good old nasal singe of horse radish cream, while a small mound of pickled onions give their pucker.
A charcuterie selection £15 brings bonnet saucisson, presa de bellota and chorizo, each with its own rhythm, from the slow chew of the saucisson to the rich, nutty depth of the presa. All quietly satisfying, and got dispatched effortlessly.
The three of us had a huge affection for the steak tartare £14 on more of that attention grabbing sour dough – toasted this time. Steak tartare is never really my go-to dish, but this version with chopped parsley, capers, cornichons, shallots and a generous mix of dijon was a genuine masterstroke. We ordered two.
Purple sprouting broccoli £9.50 in a puddle of shimmering oil with ricotta and chilli challenges convention, it’s a combination which is new and excites the taste buds. It’s a dish that shines.
The lamb sweetbreads £15 arrived with a gutsy sauce, punched up with crispy bacon and a depth that sonar could detect. I found myself dredging the pillowy offal over and over into the sauce. A shot of vitamin K came from charred hispi cabbage and fronds of raw chicory
There was also a cracking pink lamb loin £26 with crépinette, a type of mystery meat wrapped in caul, it makes friends with white turnips and spinach and more of that fabulous jus they use.
First from the desserts was “little chocolate pot with Chantilly cream” £6.50 which served the purpose of giving us a sweet ending.
Better was the rhubarb clafoutis £8, an eggy crisp pastry filled with a set custard and expertly cut slabs of citric rhubarb. A pastel yellow custard and a sorbet or sorts finished off the situation nicely.
Verdict
When did I go? Apr 2019
The damage: £40-50 per head sans wine
The good: There weren’t any starry-eyed moments per se, but the feed was very endearing nonetheless, I would describe the cookery here as a delight and worth swinging by in an already crowded manor. The bread and butter, steak tartare, and charcuterie all hit with quiet satisfaction; the lamb sweetbreads and pink lamb loin delivered bold, joyous flavours; and the rhubarb clafoutis, alongside the little chocolate pot, closed the meal on a perfectly sweet note
The bad: Nothing to whinge about.
Rating: 4/5
Would I go again? Will have to check out Duchy now.
Address: 18 Phipp St, Hackney, London EC2A 4NU
Web: https://www.leroyshoreditch.com
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