Royal China Club on Baker Street is a dim sum institution – the crown jewel of a six-strong London empire. After 12 years, they’ve gone big, knocking through to the next-door unit and expanding into a 180-cover powerhouse. Wise move, considering the monstrous crabs and lobsters lurking in their tanks – they probably need a car forecourt for those beasts. And don’t get me started on the geoducks, thick as elephant trunks. But I’m here for the dim sum. Four visits deep, and there’s a reason for that. Let’s get into it.
Those geoducks. Beasts!
Char siu pork puffs (three per portion) are like the lovechild of a Cantonese curry puff and a golden pastry dream. But forget the curry – inside, you get a molten hit of sweet, sticky, porky decadence. Bite in, and the flaky, oven-fresh shell gives way, unleashing that rich, glossy filling straight onto your taste buds. A proper dim sum delight
Sesame paper prawns with mango sauce (£5.60 for three) are a masterclass in texture – shatteringly crisp on the outside, giving way to sweet, bouncy prawns within. The mango sauce? A bit of a third wheel, unnecessary when the prawns already do all the sweet talking.
Vietnamese spring rolls with prawns & soft-shell crab (£5.80 for three) are straight-up palate pleasers – fresh, vibrant, and packed with quality you can taste. Every ingredient shines, wrapped up in delicate rice paper. A tangy fish-vinegar sauce cuts through the richness, while crisp lettuce cups add a refreshing crunch.
Steamed seabass rolls Szechuan style (£8.60) had me skeptical – would the heat and numbing spices bulldoze the delicate fish? Turns out, I was wrong. The balance was spot on, the seabass still singing through the fire. The only sound? Chopsticks clacking, mine included.
Har gau (£6.40) were textbook perfection – plump, hyper-sweet prawns with a bite, mingled with crisp bamboo, all hugged by a thin, translucent wrapper that had just the right chew. We have dim sum mastery right here.
The siu mai (£5.80), crowned with vibrant crab roe, were a succulent delight – neither too coarse nor too fine, just that perfect bouncy bite. Every ingredient pulled its weight, speaking for itself in a mouthful of Cantonese excellence. They nail the classics here.
Crystal prawn dumplings (£8.20) felt like a remix of har gau, but with extra depth – sweet prawns mingling with earthy mushrooms and the fresh bite of gai lan, all wrapped up in a delicate, translucent skin. A refined twist on a classic.
Prawn and chive dumplings (£6.20) – succulent prawns and fragrant chives wrapped in a perfectly chewy, translucent skin. Fresh, crisp, and simple – each bite is a hit of sweet seafood and aromatic allium. One of my favourite classic dim sums perfectly judged.
Crab siu long bao (£6.40) boasts a beautifully balanced filling with oceanic sweetness and seasoning, though the pastry’s a bit on the thicker side for my taste. But hey, can’t win them all!
Taro cake (£8.20) is a sensory adventure, a classic reimagined with off-piste dim sum flair – think truffle, wild mushrooms, and caviar. It’s familiar yet utterly surprising, a mix of earthy depth and luxurious finish that’ll have you rethinking the whole concept of taro.
Glutinous rice wrapped in lotus leaves £9.60 is a generous lump of goodness that would stop you in your tracks – it says “mini glutinous rice wrap” on the menu. But there’s nothing mini about it, the filling is full of umami and comes with whole fresh prawns vs the usual dried shrimps which is a welcome change that bring elevation.
The lush, silky prawn and chive cheung fun (£7) slid down effortlessly – delicious to the point of being devoured in seconds. Each delicate roll bursts with juicy prawns and fragrant chives, wrapped in a smooth, silky, almost ethereal rice wrapper had me attacking it full pelt with my chopsticks.
Beef and quail egg cheung fun (£8.30) is another solid plate, the quail egg adding a bit of visual drama but getting a little lost in the mix. No matter though – the tender beef and delicate rice wrapper steal the show, all held together by a subtle, savoury sauce that’s just gives the right amount of umami.
Pan fried mince lamb buns £5.20 are not a common item on a dim sum menu, but it’s testament to the guys at RCC doing things differently. They’re served hot with a crispy umber-tinged base that snaps and crunches – it’s a welcome expression of lamb and carbohydrate.
Fried steak hor fun (£15) is a Cantonese classic that delivers on every front – oily, luscious, and packed with wok-hei that’s nothing short of soul-nourishing. Don’t fool yourself into thinking it’s light though; this is the kind of dish that’ll stick to your ribs in the best way possible.
The roast BBQ pork Royal China style (£18) is a masterpiece of love and care – where the fat is perfectly rendered, the meat is spiced just right, and the skin is so crisp it crackles like sandpaper if you run your knife over it when it’s fresh from the oven. There’s a dulcet crunch echoes in my mouth into my ear canals.
The half roast duck Cantonese style (£25) is a slow-cooked masterpiece. A water-vinegar bath crisps the skin, while the marinade -five spice, spring onions, garlic, ginger, bean sauce, oyster sauce, and fermented bean curd – infuses the meat with deep, umami-packed flavour. The result: juicy meat, golden lacquered skin, and absolute Cantonese duck nirvana.
Mustard and sugar for the pork, plum sauce for the duck.
Ginger kai lan (£15) hits all the right notes – vivid crunch, fresh, glistening and packed with that perfect balance of earthy sweetness. Topped with a garnish of shredded crispy ginger, it adds a little extra flair and warmth to this already standout plate of greens.
Oyster sauce baby pak choi (£15) – aren’t they just a sight to behold? These little beauties are tender, juicy, and perfectly sauced, soaking up that rich oyster sauce like they’ve been waiting for this moment. Simple, but they’ve got charm. It’s the kind of dish that makes you pause and appreciate the elegance of a well-cooked veggie.
Tung Choi (£15) – cooked flawlessly with the bold funk of fermented bean curd, a touch of MSG, and a hit of julienne ginger. These greens are packed with layers of umami and punch, each bite hitting a savory sweet spot. They’ve got that balance of comfort and kick, a proper plate of greens that sings with flavour.
Second Visit
It’s those crustaceans that need their own car park!
Proceedings started with one of Speyside’s finest.
The Vietnamese spring rolls with soft shell crab and prawns hitting the spot yet again.
Beef cheung fun with quail egg staying consistently good.
Goodness resonates into the prawn cheung fun – they get the pastry and fresh prawn combo just right.
The kai lan is so fresh and the quality of it deserves cred – the cubed ginger is a novel addition as it’s usually crushed – it’s awesome.
Chicken claws with blacken sauce £5.20 are easily some of the best I’ve had. If the concept puts you off, I dare you to try these and not like the flavour – you’ll easily make friends with them.
Har gau – just as good as I remembered them.
Siu mai with crab roe – this time, a little coarser in texture, as a result the ingredients are more boldly distinct, each bite a satisfying mix of bounce and bite. No complaints here, just pure, unfiltered deliciousness.
Prawn and chive dumplings were also brilliant.
What surprised me was how good the char siu bao £5.10 was. The light as clouds dough had a dark, intensely savoury and sticky BBQ pork filling within.
Not the cheapest for two!
Visit number three was during Chinese new year 2019, post overhaul.
Char siu pork puffs were just as good as the first time.
Har gau is a classic done well here. I’m glad, as they are one of my favourites.
Prawn and chive dumplings were still decent enough.
The beef cheung fun wrapped with quail egg and quivering rice pastry is a must have.
The pertest prawns and aromatic chives makes this cheung fun stand out from the crowd.
The chickens claws were yielding, rich and a revel to eat.
Disappointingly, the char siu bao weren’t as good. Somehow, the filling was thinner – it was bursting from the seams last time.
Fragrant ginger is cubed and julienned to enhance the sumptuous kai lan.
The glutinous rice wrap was brilliant too.
Siu mai crested with crab roe never fails here.
Ouch, how much??
December 2019
Anyone who knows their way around a dim sum menu will clock the char siu pork puff (£6.80) as a certified classic.The ones here break the usual triangular mould, rolling up instead like mini pasties – crimped edges, golden-bronzed, and flecked with black and white sesame seeds. Inside? A sticky, glistening pork filling that hits that perfect sweet-salty balance. So good we doubled down and ordered another round. They arrive on sleek slate plates, one side dusted with icing sugar, a spoon on one, a fork on another, their outlines left behind like some kind of edible stencil art. Extra? Maybe. But when the food’s this good, who’s complaining, not me.
More slate, this time in sleek rectangular form, playing host to the vegetarian spring rolls (£5.80). They land on the table golden and shatteringly crisp, neatly bisected to reveal their delicate cross-sections. But the real visual flourish? They’re bundled in trios, cinched together with a vivid green ribbon of garlic chives – an extra touch that makes them feel just a bit more special. It’s a reminder that great food isn’t just about taste; it’s about the full sensory experience, and here, they’ve made sure your eyes get a feast before your first bite.
Dover sole cheung fun (£8.80) – the kind of dish that, when done right, is pure dim sum luxury. The silky rice, almost translucent, wraps the fish like a delicate veil. Inside, the dover sole is light, its natural oceanic sweetness given a nudge by the umami-laden soy brew that pools beneath. If the cheung fun gods are smiling, every mouthful glides down effortlessly, like me, you’ll hunker down and inhale the lot.
Deep-fried prawn dumplings (£6.80) – let’s call them refined prawn balls in the best possible way. When done right, they deliver that unmistakable seafood sweetness, the prawns inside slightly pink-tinged with a bouncy, juicy bite that lets you know they’ve been treated with respect. The richness is offset by the tangy, creamy sauce they come with, a little sharpness cutting through all that crisp-fried indulgence. They make their entrance on an oval plate with a gilded rim, nestled on a banana leaf, and with a tiny bundle of micro herbs on the side – just enough to remind you that presentation matters too.
The runny custard buns £7.80 aka black gold are charcoal coloured orbs brushed with a single stroke of gold for visual effect. Drama before you’ve even taken a bite. Inside, is a molten mouthful hinged between sweet yet savoury. But the real show starts when you tear one open. Out spills a molten river of salted egg custard, a hypnotic mix of sweet and savoury, silky yet grainy, rich yet impossibly light. It’s the kind of bite that halts conversation, commands attention, and for a moment, nothing else matters.
Black sauce chicken claws (£5.80) are complex with savouriness sweetness from the aromatics of soy, dried chilli, star anise, shoaxing wine, oyster sauce and of course fermented black beans. Everything has lightened again, not least because of the julienne fresh spring onions and red chilli. If you’re a stranger to these, here’s what you need to know: it’s all about texture. The slow-stewed collagen turns gelatinous, giving each bite a luxurious, lip-coating depth that drinks up every last drop of seasoning.
Prawn and chive dumplings (£6.80) are the kind that make you nod in silent approval before you’ve even swallowed. The wrappers are translucent, with just the right chew, supple enough to hold their shape but delicate enough to give way with the faintest bite. Inside, a vivid green tangle of garlic chives brings freshness and punch, wrapped around crisp, bouncy prawns that snap with every bite.
These siu mai (£7.80) are the epitome of dim sum finesse. The pork filling is juicy, tender, and flawlessly seasoned, with just enough fat to give it that melt-in-your-mouth richness. The crowning glory of crab roe on top that elevates them into something unforgettable – delicate, sweet, and briny, adding that luxury pop with each bite.
The prawn and chive cheung fun (£8.80) come with that wrapper they just nailed to a tee; delicate, silky and chewy, hugs the filling with just the right amount of tension, not too tight, not too loose. The balance of textures and flavours is spot on, the umami from the soy brew harmonising with the sea-kissed taste of pert prawn. A true dim sum triumph.
Crispy dough cheung fun (£6.80) is the kind of dish that makes you wonder how something so simple can be so addictive. I always order it. The cheung fun itself is silky and smooth, sliding effortlessly across your tongue, while the crispy dough inside adds a glorious crunch, a satisfying contrast to the softness of the rice wrapper. It all comes together when drizzled with that sweet soy brew.
Beef cheung fun with quail egg omelette (£8.80) is an elevated take on a classic. And just like all of the times I’ve ordered it, which is every time! The cheung fun itself is soft and supple, each silky roll enfolding tender, juicy minced beef that’ve soaked up just the right amount of soy and seasoning. But then, there’s the quail egg omelette – fluffy, delicate, and perfectly cooked, slipped into the roll too to form part of the wrapper. It is a luxurious pairing.
Cantonese steamed beef balls (Ngao Yuk) made with wagyu (£11.80) are a whole new level of luxe. Plump, juicy, and tender with that melt-in-your-mouth wagyu richness, these bad boys are a silky bite of beefy heaven – this is next-level comfort.
Lo mai gai (£10.80) is the ultimate sticky rice bomb. Fragrant glutinous rice wrapped in a lotus leaf, steamed to exquisiteness with a rich filling of tender chicken, sausage, and mushrooms. It’s comfort wrapped in tradition, with every bite an umami-packed, savoury hit.
Shredded pork with bean sprouts and spring onions over crispy yellow noodles (£16.80) is an absolute crunch-fest. The noodles are golden, crispy, creating a satisfying base for the tender, juicy shredded pork. The bean sprouts and spring onions bring freshness and crunch, while thickened sauce ties it all together with a savoury hit. It’s simple, but it’s everything you want in a plate of comfort.
Morning glory with fermented beancurd, julienne ginger, and chillis (£15.80) is a vibrant, punchy dish. The crisp greens soak up the umami-rich beancurd, while the ginger adds a sharp bite and the chillies bring the warmth. It’s a fiery, funky side that cuts through the richness of any meal.
And of course the ginger kai lan (£15.80) that always gets ordered – it’s my tradition and has my adulation for all the tender, wok tossed stems of green joy they bring.
Taro croquettes (£8.80) come dressed like elegant swans, golden and crisp. Inside, the smooth, earthy taro hides a luxurious black truffle-infused filling so dark, it’s like the night itself. Each bite is a delicate crunch, followed by an intoxicatingly rich truffle hit – a perfect fusion of playful presentation and indulgent flavour.
Half a roast duck Cantonese style £25.80 came with luscious lacquered skin and succulent flesh as it did before. It was deboned and ready to be quickly inhaled.
The verdict:
When did I go? Oct 2016 + Apr 2017 + Feb 2019 + Dec 2019
The damage: Expect to pay £50-£70 per head
The good: What immediately hits you at RCC is the quality of ingredients and the attention to detail in their dim sum. Their secret sauce? Refined Cantonese cuisine that elevates the classics, and it’s clear in every bite. As much as I love Chinatown, it’s a breath of fresh air to step away from the tourist traps and embrace a more luxurious, upscale vibe. I’ll admit it – I’ve come for the deluxe dim sum, and maybe even told myself that’s why I keep coming back. They’ve got a knack for adding a little extra flair too, with luxury ingredients like truffle and caviar that take dishes to another level. It’s never going to be cheap, but when it’s this good, I’ll happily pay for it.
The bad: The obvious is the price, which is probably why I don’t come here too often, the dishes are probably 50% more than the average. Is it worth it though? (This is where I contradict myself). Probably not, but come here when you’re feeling flush as the food is lush!
Rating: 4.5/5
Would I go again? Yes
Address: 40-42 Baker St, Marylebone, London W1U 7AJ
Web: https://www.royalchinagroup.co.uk/restaurants/royal-china-club/
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