Jai-Ca Review Barcelona

Some people take one look at Jai-Ca’s decor the moment they step onto the checkered-tile floor, mutter “this is filthy” under their breath, and walk away. I am not some people. What I see is a characterful venue that’s remained largely untouched since it first opened in 1955. It serves up what the fishermen hauled in just hours earlier – so expect plenty of seafood tapas featuring octopus, anchovies, squid, cod, mussels, and an assortment of clams. It’s my kind of place. Sure, the cherrywood bar is sticky and the floor’s a bit grimy – I’m honestly surprised there’s no spit or sawdust, but that’s part of the charm. Don’t forget to wipe your feet on the way out. But really, don’t mind me – it’s not that bad. Just focus on the ludicrously delicious food, like I did.

We sat at the bar for a reason: to get a front-row view of the chef in action. We watched as our padrón peppers €5.20 were dunked into molten oil, their skins blistering before being generously dusted with salt – a virtuous interplay of simplicity that can’t be missed.

In the same vein lightly floured anchovies €7 were fried till crisp – it’s a triumph of how fresh fish can be so compelling with a simple cookery and a squeeze of mouth puckering lemon. I almost licked the screen when writing this.

The bomba is a slow-simmered mince of anonymous animal anatomy, wrapped in soft mashed potato, then breadcrumbed and fried until golden. It arrives warm, generously topped with spicy tomato sauce and a nasal singeing dollop of aioli. It’s a whole lot of action for just €2.20.

Gambetes fregides €5.90 came as a pile of sweet shrimp, lightly floured and crisped to the point where their fiendishly delicious shells demanded maximum nibbleage.

How I like to inhale – a riot of texture and flavour on my fork.

Verdict

When did I go? March 2018
The damage: Expect to pay €15/20 per head with a glass of vino
The good: From the blistered padrón peppers to the crunchy, addictive gambetes fregides, and that glorious bomba packed with mysterious meaty goodness, Jai-Ca delivers the hits. There’s plenty of head-turning, glorious seafood to be devoured here with reckless abandon – how they cook what once swam is the restaurant’s major feather in its cap. Each dish is a lesson in delicious simplicity; fried, salted, sauced, and served without pretence. It’s food made to be devoured, not discussed, and at prices that feel almost suspiciously generous. If you’re after culinary fireworks in a setting that couldn’t care less about polish, Jai-Ca’s the kind of place you’ll remember long after you’ve wiped the aioli off your chin.
The bad: If you’re a stickler for modernity or cleanliness then walk away.
Rating: 3.75/5
Would I go again? It’s on the list.
Address: Carrer de Ginebra, 13, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Web: https://www.barjaica.com/en/

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