Like any sane, properly brought-up human, I’m powerless in the face of steaks imported from Argentina, home to some of the best breeds in the world. This is where Casa Malevo’s steaks come from – fillet, rump, sirloin, or rib-eye, with the heftiest lump being the 500g rib-eye Provençal (£55). They’ve been doing their thing since 2010 in Paddington, in a bare-bricked room with wooden floors that backs onto a conservatory so hot it could fry eggs – well, at least when I was there. There’s also lamb chops and seabass for those who purposely miss the point of the outing
The home made bread (£3) with a mix of a classic white loaf, focaccia, oregano and salt flecked crackers with thyme butter gives me the impression they taking baking seriously here. Two of us devoured the lot in 125 seconds flat.
Of course, we had to get the 500g rib-eye Provençal (£55). It lands with two sunny-side-up fried eggs, chips, chimichurri, and criolla sauce. They recommend it medium, and it arrives just so – crosshatched with perfect grill marks, served on a rustic slate plate. It claims to feed two. I believe them
Sautéed mushrooms (£4) were a little predictable if anything blissfully boring, of course we ate them all.
More interesting were the grilled red peppers (£4.50), which were soft, sweet and melting – they seem to pair well with a mouthful of red meat.
Roasted broccoli (£4.45) – ideal for those chasing gym gains, eating for function, not pleasure. Me? I prefer mine with more scorch, more flavour, more attitude
Creamed spinach (£4.95) – arguably the most interesting side, draped in a molten blanket of golden cheese. It’s rich, it’s indulgent, and let’s be real – come 3pm, you’ll be fighting the kind of food coma that turns spreadsheets into pillowcases
Verdict
When did I go? Feb 2018
The damage: Expect to pay £45/60 per head with wine
The good: Casa Malevo keeps it blissfully simple, no fuss, no gimmicks – just steak done right. What landed on our plate had that deep, mineral-rich beefiness and carbonic sear – the kind that lingers on the palate and reminds you why Argentine beef reigns supreme. Cooked just so, with the perfect bite, it didn’t just hit the spot – it owned it
The bad: Most of the sides, chips included, were perfectly finishable – but being honest, they played it too safe. Nothing to offend, but nothing to thrill either. A bit more swagger wouldn’t have gone amiss for a jaded palate like mine
Rating: 3/5
Would I go again? If in the area.
Address: 23 Connaught St, St George’s Fields, London W2 2AY
Web: http://casamalevo.com
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