Parsons opened its doors for the first time on 6 December 2017 with a promise “to create something new and exciting, where the wine, as well as the simply prepared fish, plays an equally important role in the experience.” Being a fish lover, I can definitely get behind that. The restaurant is named in honour of the mums of owners Will Palmer and Ian Campbell, who coincidentally share the same name. It occupies the site of a former historic greasy spoon called Diana’s Diner and sits across the road from Rock & Sole Plaice, a bona fide fish-and-chips institution. Inside, it’s all about white tiles and mirrors, one of which has the daily catch written in joined-up handwriting – a bygone skill. There are small tables, jade-green banquettes, and a tight spiral staircase leading down to the cellar. The bar, an island situated in the middle of the restaurant, looks like a repurposed ship or an iron – or perhaps both. To me, it feels unmistakably Parisian: a bistro in Covent Garden.
With a glass of vino seco blanco from Marlborough, New Zealand £7.50, nibble on the joy-spreading salt cod fritters £4.70, spun through a bash of herbs. I’m am proud to say they made me dribble.
Then arrived a stew of soft, muscular octopus £15.50, lounging with good-quality chorizo and fat, date-stuffed bacon. The liquor teased with Spanish influence – smoky paprika weaving a warm, lingering warmth on the palate.
The shooting star of the meal was the brown crab pissaladière £9, something our waitress insisted was unmissable. After the first bite, I couldn’t argue – this is where the restaurant truly comes into its own. A crisp sourdough base is generously smeared with luxurious brown crab meat, unleashing a tsunami of umami. Then, a burst of aniseed arrives, piped in tarragon and crowned with a crisped leaf of the same. They knew exactly what they were doing – plating up a dish that invites swooning and frenzy in equal measure.
By comparison, the pollack £24 to share was a more subdued affair – every high has its low, as they say. The fish tasted as if it had been marinated in salt, drawing out all the moisture until the flesh turned flaky and gelatinous. But without a sauce to bring it to life, the dish felt asleep. In the end, we rescued it with our tomato, caper, and fennel salad – saving it from despair
The moisture giving tomato, caper and fennel salad £6.50.
Verdict
When did I go? June 2019
The damage: Expect to pay £40/50 per head with booze
The good: Parson’s is a great place to linger and slow graze – unassuming yet clever with fish, especially crab. Oh, that brown crab pissaladière is an underrated marvel, a simple pleasure in life that should never die out. Alongside standout dishes like the joy-spreading salt cod fritters and the smoky, sumptuous octopus stew, Parsons invites you to savor bold flavors crafted with care. It is what it is -a spot where thoughtful pairings and honest cooking come together to create moments worth savouring, even if some dishes need a little saving grace.
The bad: The pollack cookery was where the meal stutters and falls flat. I’d avoid it.
Rating: 3.5/5
Would I go again? The brown crab pissaladière will lure me back
Address: 39 Endell St, West End, London WC2H 9BA
Web: https://www.parsonslondon.co.uk
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