Gunpowder Tower Bridge is a product of success – the sequel to the first opening in Spitalfields in late 2015, a snug 20-seater that loudly celebrates small plates inspired by Indian home cooking, refined to a level that makes me question what good Indian cookery looks like elsewhere. The new venue carries the same spirit, but it’s bigger, smarter, and more polished. The menu has been carefully considered, with standout dishes carried over. It’s no surprise they’ve opened a larger site, the old one was, frankly, cramped. The Tower Bridge location opened in August 2018; I visited in April 2019, see my review below and my views on the OG can be seen here.
We start with the spicy venison doughnut £5.50, wrapped in a crisp, golden vermicelli shell. The lean mince inside is lifted by bold, uncompromising spice and heat, while a soothing chutney on the side adds tang and balance. It’s a signature dish for good reason.
The Karwari soft-shell crab is another stalwart dish carried over, coated in Indian-spiced crispness with chutney strategically placed on its claws and shell. It’s a showstopper that shouldn’t be missed and at £12.50, it still feels like good value (though it was just £8 when I first tried it at Spitalfields).
Less value is found in the grilled artichoke hearts £8, served with a spiced red pepper masala. I’d never tried them before, and I probably wouldn’t order them again as they just didn’t hot the spot for me.
Don’t miss the porzhi okra fries £7, another steadfast Spitalfields favourite that I order every time. The batter here was thicker and heavier – still perfectly edible, but I missed the part-battered, lacy tangles of how I remembered the okra. See for yourself by clicking here. I can be sentimental sometimes.
The Sigree-grilled mustard broccoli (£6.50 for a half portion) arrives with charred florets and a serrated knife stabbed into it for a touch of theatre. We found ourselves sawing away and dredging our vitamin-boosted friend through the mustard-laced sauce it came with.
Maa’s Kashmiri lamb chops are French-trimmed, deluxe pieces of joy that evoke warm memories. The edges are blackened, the marinade unapologetically bold and spicy, while the centre remains pink and juicy. It’s a lot of excitement for £7.50 a piece and I regret not ordering more.
The Chettinad pulled duck £6.50 is slow-cooked into a dark, fragrant stew, then wrapped in a soft homemade oothappam. It’s messy, soulful, and layered with spice – the kind of dish that makes you pause mid-bite. Another treasure carried over from the original site, and one I hope never disappears from the menu.
Then came the organic baby chicken, coal-charred and coated in tandoori spices (£9.50 for half). The skin carried a smoky bite, the flesh tender and well-seasoned – a solid rendition. Yet, for all its competence, it didn’t quite etch itself into memory the way some of the other dishes did.
What caught us by surprise were the masala eggs £5. Humble hard-boiled eggs are elevated to pure delight, bathed in a spiced, puckering sauce that demands your attention with every bite.
The Nagaland crispy pork ribs £9 with cucumber kachumber offer a soothing, sweet counterpoint to the fiery punch of the other dishes. Crispy as promised, they practically insist on finger-to-mouth indulgence, each bite a perfect balance of crunch, spice, and subtle freshness.
The Kerala beef pepper fry £12 is a new addition, featuring fragrant, aromatic slivers of beef with a sharp, punchy heat. Unfortunately, the meat was dry, making it a slog to eat, and the spices tasted a little raw – they could benefit from more roasting. I’ll be skipping this one next time.
Verdict
When did I go? March 19
The damage: Expect to pay £25/30per head with a drink
The good: Gunpowder Tower Bridge builds on the success of the original Spitalfields site, offering a larger, brighter setting while keeping the heart of the menu intact. There’s plenty to return for: the perfectly judged Chettinad pulled duck, the soft-shell crab, the tangy masala eggs, smoky Nagaland ribs, the tender Kashmiri lamb chops, and the boldly spiced venison doughnut. While a few new additions, like the Kerala beef pepper fry, fall short, the overall experience remains flavourful, inventive, and consistently engaging.
The bad: Like I said, dodge the beef pepper fry. Strangely, I found the new venue lacking some of the soul of the original, perhaps because it was fairly empty when we visited, or maybe the intimacy of a smaller space brings a different kind of joy.
Rating: 4/5
Would I go again? Yes
Address: 4 Duchess Walk, London SE1 2SD
Web: https://www.gunpowderlondon.com/tower-bridge/
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