With its effortlessly cool 27-seat Soho stalwart no more, Spuntino now caters to travellers departing from Terminal 3. I’d describe this relatively new site as similar to the original with its glazed tiled walls, the way the dimly bulbs dangle, the communal tables with steel piped legs and ceiling with exposed pipe work and extractor fans – it’s very much like the old but bigger. Spuntino comes from the team behind Polpo and Polpetto, known for their northern Italian sharing plates. Here, however, the concept shifts to an American diner and offers things like “The New York Breakfast”, that’s chorizo, Boston beans, eggs anyway and sour dough. And then, there’s their truffled egg toast transported from the Soho original, a fontina and gruyere cheese concoction spread liberally on a thick slab of white toast that glistens with the shimmer of runny egg and truffle oil. I remember this dish fondly. Spuntino’s Soho original shut its doors in July 2019, but before that, it had already found a new home at Heathrow’s Terminal 3, opening in December 2018.
The boss opts for gluten-free toast, smoked salmon, and leaky poached eggs – yours for £11. I had a bite. Decent, if a little pedestrian. But hey, who am I to judge?
For value, the NYC-style bagel with scrambled eggs, Cumberland sausages, and melted American cheese is a solid pick at £8. And if that’s not enough, you get a good fistful of cubed fried potatoes – more of a belly filler than a thrill giver, a bit parched if I’m honest.
Verdict
When did I go? March 2018
The damage: Expect to pay £15 per head with a soft drink
The good: It’s quite a leap from a tiny Soho diner to a spot with millions passing through every year – but as Derek Trotter used to say, ‘He who dares, wins.’ Good on them. Check them out if you’re after some belly filling nourishment – it’s got to be better than some of what the chains sell in T3.
The bad: Although passable, I felt that my bagel needed a shot of adrenaline, some sauce maybe? Just a sprinkle of magic to make it less bone-dry.
Rating: 2.5/5
Would I go again? I’ll be back fro the truffle toast and bloody Marys.
Address: Nelson Rd, Longford, Hounslow TW6 1QG
Web: http://spuntino.co.uk
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