A neighbourhood pub is the mecca for dispatching pints at will or glasses of chardonnay if that’s your bag, with no prissy minded antics or suspicious starchy table clothes in sight, and you can always be on first name terms with the barman, or barwoman – The Glasshouse is a local that can give you that. They say they have global larder on the menu, if you can count Cajun spiced salmon or home made pizza with boisterous toppings that. But you shouldn’t really care, I don’t, it’s all about the end result, right? They have a good selection of vino, gin, whisky and things on tap that can be drunk inside or in their beer garden. At the front, it’s a very typical boozer and towards the back you have a good sized room painted the colour of the darker shade of duck egg blue with wood furnishings and matching floors – this is where people come to graze, linger and flirt.
The pizza with daily made fresh dough is cooked in a specially made oven right by the main bar, and there’s a napolitana, Margherita, a vegetarian option, but I opt for the “Glasshouse Hot” £8.90. It’s topped with nduja, a lively Italian sausage paste boosted with ground chillis – that gives a burst of spicy umami notes, and there’s green chilli, mozzarella and chorizo with a slathering of encouraging tomato sauce on a crispy edged base. I found myself licking the rust coloured oil all over my fingers after each slice.
The boss goes for the cajun crusted salmon £13.95 with Mediterranean vegetables whatever that means with crushed new potatoes and a oil shimmering rocket pesto. It was a sorted plate of food. even if the salmon could have done with 2 minutes less on the stove.
I was in the area and came back 3 years later for a pizza fix. They cooked to order Neapolitan style pizza with nice moist centre, a puffy crisp base with sharp tomatoes. I opt for the “Glasshouse Hot” £11 again. The fiery toppings are tongue tingling caress – They got a hook in my mouth but sticking nduja on the menu. The other order is a margarita – I call it nice.
When did I go? Nov 2018, Dec 2021.
The damage: Expect to pay £25 per head with booze
The good: Expect a down to earth boozer with a good choice poison and a good feed, then you’ll be alright. On top of that, you’ll get made to order pizza, a decent sized beer garden and a nice crowd.
The bad: Not a lot to grumble about
Would I go again? Yes
Address: 14 Coombe Rd, New Malden KT3 4QE