The Dairy – Review (Clapham)

It’s all happening south of the river for me now, first the Trinity and now discovering The Dairy (sorry I’m a late comer) which opened in March 2013 a stone throw away from Clapham Common Tube. Husband and wife team Robin and Sarah Gill who run The Dairy are also responsible for The Manor in Clapham which opened in November 2014 and more recently Paradise Garage which was launched just last month. Head chef Robin Gill who was the former head chef at Almeida, worked at Noma and Manoir Aux Quat Saisons with the delectable Raymond Blanc has a simple mission – an emphasis of seasonality and cooking really good creative food. Herbs and vegetables are grown on their rooftop urban garden and honey is produced by their own bees, I mean how cool is that? The decor is minimal, no white table cloths in sight, comes with an open kitchen format and bar – seating around 40 diners.  The wine list features an array of well priced wines and the food is composed of ‘small plates’ from the ‘garden’, ‘sea’ and ‘land’ as you can see here and a tasting menu is available too:

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Chefs stopping work for a momentary pose!

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My fellow diner and I were served complimentary grilled green beans and sunflower butter – the beans tasted super fresh, sweet and worked well with the grainy butter. A good start indeed.

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The freshly baked bread went down a treat too – as you tore into crunchy shell steamed puffed out. The fluffy butter just made it all the more luscious. I could’ve easily eaten more and more!

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Chicken Liver Mousse, Gooseberry and Apple. £6. The mousse was whipped to a fluffy consistency, silky smooth and the acidic fruit gave balance.

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Lady Hamilton’ smoked cod, wild fennel seeds, sorrel. £4. Not the most convincing dish for me, totally not what I expected with the yogurt like consistency. I would dodge this one and opt for another dish next time.

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Truffled brie de Meaux, fig and walnut toast, rooftop honey. £9.5.  This was quite possibly the most awesome brie dish I’ve ever had. The cheese was nicely melted onto that crunchy toast and that generous mountain of earthy truffles tasted so good with it. If you don’t oder this, you WILL regret it!

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Kentish corn, white polenta, barbecued duck hearts. £8.5. I loved this dish and single handedly demolished it, perfect textually with crunchy corn against the really flavourful polenta and fresh sweet corn. This dish along with the brie were my favourite things to eat for the evening.

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Salt baked beetroot, cobnuts, house lardo, damson. £8.5. The white beetroot came sliced thinly and tasted really sweet unlike the earthy purple variety. The cobnuts gave texture and the damson the acidity.

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Applewood smoked eel, charred English radish, soft yolk. £10.5. A little stingy with only 2 pieces of small eel but the flavour was  really good. I love the fact that you could pop the yolk and add that richness to the dish too.

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Chicken oyster, crispy skin, kefir, lettuce. £9. For those who aren’t in the know, kefir is a cultured milk product and it gave the dish a slightly acidic taste which worked really well with all the elements of the dish. The lettuce come with a slightly brined too which I thought was a nice touch.

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73 day aged Devonshire beef, Scottish girolles, caramelised tunworth. £25 (For 2).  This is for the advanced beef eater – the flavour intense from the ageing and further enhanced by the nutty tunworth cheese. Don’t expect a juicy ribeye like texture but robust flavours for this one.

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The verdict;

The damage: Expect to pay £50-£75 per head with wine and cocktails
The good: The truffled brie de Meaux and Kentish corn dishes were made by the culinary gods and I will sooner rather than later go back for them alone and order extra fresh sour dough bread too! The service was brisk, friendly, on point and the urban rooftop garden is a lovely touch too. If you really would like to know how good British cooking should be then look no further and get booking. I was really surprised at how good value it is too and there’s a real buzz in the atmosphere.
The bad: The Lady Hamilton’ smoked cod wasn’t the greatest and I really wish I came here earlier and I can’t wait to try The Manor and Paradise Garage!
Rating: 4/5
the-dairy.co.uk
15 The Pavement, Clapham Old Town, SW4 0H1

0207 622 4165

2 comments

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  1. Stefan · August 29, 2015

    After trying the manor about a month ago, this was long overdue. Lucked out with the weather on a lovely Sunday afternoon with all those runners intent on making me feel unfit and guilty. Sod ’em I want this truffled Brie you’ve been harping on about.

    Loved every dish and, for the record, they have changed the lady Hamilton dish and added salsify and sea aster (had to look that one up). One of my favourite of the tasting menu. The other dishes all were similar (at least in terms of quality if not ingredients).

    Did you notice the tag on the bottom of the bread bag? “Made by mum”. Had to double check – and I was told it was actually made “by mum”. Nice touch – my mum would be chuffed! Quality food and great atmosphere @thedairyclapham

    Got to finish this trinity with paradise garage now I guess!

  2. Admin · August 29, 2015

    I’m happy that you loved it as much as me Stefan! I’m glad they added salsify and sea aster into the Lady Hamilton dish as it was missing that textual dimension in my humble opinion.

    For the record too I didn’t notice the ‘made by mum’ tag which is a pleasant little addition indeed to an already awesome sour dough.

    As for Paradise Garage, I can’t wait to check it out to complete the trilogy – we shall cross notes again!

    Thanks for you comments as always.

    Grubstance