Ceviche – Peru in Soho?

There’s lots to love about Peruvian cuisine, it’s the beautiful love child of technique and flavours, brought over to Peru by immigrants from China, Japan, Spain and Italy. Ceviche Soho is London’s representation of that, which was opened in 2010 by Martin Morales, who chucked in his role as Head Music at Disney to pursue a restaurant career. As you walk in, there is a pair of bars, one steel topped, which doubles up as the mixology station and a place to eat. The other side, you could fit four, but their probably the least favourable in the restaurant due to the traffic of people. Inside, you get dark wood flooring, against white walls trimmed with pastel green panelling and funky art work. Seating wise, it’s brown wooden chairs with matching tables. It’s a nice place to be.

First up was the black king fish tiradito £9, was the meaty cobra king fish marinated in citric yuzu tiger’s milk, garnished with cucamelon, and naranjita China (kumquat). The result makes you go back for more and more. *Disclaimer –  “tiger’s milk” is the marinade of lime, chilli and salt*. 

Add some plantain chips £2.50, for texture and you’re laughing. They were brilliant snacks.

The corazón mío £8 was the beef heart, smoky from the grill, marinated in smoky panca chilli anticuchero sauce and choclo corn. The dense, meaty texture of the heart married really well with the smoky flavours.

It was love at first bite with the ají de gallina tequeños £4.50, crispy wontons filled with chicken, onion, parmesan and amarillo. They we’re highlights of the meal.

The panza & higo £9, was a hunk of irresistible pork belly, left to slow braise until the meat is falling apart, then flamed on the grill with ají limo (lemon pepper) glaze for a punch of smoke. What it comes with, are sweet, melting figs, comfit’d in Peruvian brandy, Pisco, a long stick of pork crackling and a smear of sweet potato purée. Nothing was left.

Meaty red mullet £9, evidently good quality, marinated in fierce, yet sweet rocoto peppers. The bash of chilli was brought back down by pickled fennel and cooling coriander tartare sauce.

The verdict:

When did I go? July 2014
The damage: Expect to pay £25-£30 per head with a soft drink.
The good: The array of exotic Peruvian ingredients, brings excitement to the jaded palate, as it’s different, done well, and with stunning ingredients. I like it here and it’s my first time trying Peruvian food.
The bad: It get’s heaving in the evening and they play club volume music!
Rating: 4/5
Would I go again? I’ve rolled the dice a few times here now.
Address: 17 Frith St, Soho, London W1D 4RG
Phone: https://www.cevichefamily.com/ceviche/ceviche-soho

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