Lurra – Review (Marylebone) Basque in London

So what’s the gig with Lurra? It’s a Basque inspired charcoal & wood fired dining spot which features its own wine cellar, oak flooring, 20 seat al fresco dining area and an open kitchen with a marble bar. There is an abundant variety of seafood as well Galician beef imported by the same folk who supply Kitty Fisher’s & the renowned Clerkenwell butcher Turner and George. It ticks many boxes. (I think). It’s part of the Donostia and The Lockhart group who are all nearby too, Lurra is a wee bit younger though having opened its doors in September 2015.

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The cooking is all to see and a waft cooking meat on charcoal immediately hits you as you walk in.

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Stunning tomatoes adorned on the marbled chefs bar.

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Sour dough.

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Jamon

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There menu is geared towards a sharing plate format and they are well known for their 14 year old year old Rubia Galega or ‘Galician Blonde’ which is a breed of cattle endemic to Galicia in North-Western Spain. The grilled turbot in txakoli sauce is a must have too.

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That beef.

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The turbot so aptly named ‘Trevor’ by our front of house.

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My view from the table.

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Txakoli (Agerre) £26. In case you don’t know Txakoli is produced in the Basque region of Spain and is a light, sparking, dry white wine with low alcohol content. They are generally weeks or months old before consumed. (It works perfectly with Basque food). Pouring from a height develops that fizz.

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Cordal olives stuffed with strawberries and orange £4. My mind has a curious tendency to try new combinations (new to me anyway) and this is no exception. I found it weird but not unpleasant.

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Sour dough with bone marrow £5.5. Custardy and silken bone marrow – it’s a very interesting bite when you spread it over that already incredible charred, crusty and chewy sour dough.

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Jamón Ibérico 3 years cured £20.50. Nutty and melt in the mouth as you’d expect. If you can’t enjoy this then you can live vicariously.

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Padrón peppers with sea salt £7.5. Quintessentially Spanish and obligatory for any meal of this ilk.

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‘Matrimonio’ – anchovies and boquerones with mango vinaigrette £11. Another new combination for me – of course I’ve eaten anchovies and boquerones before but with mango vinaigrette? No. But it works, really well in fact with those tender and mouth-watering little fish.

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Courgette flower with cod brandada £8. Inside those courgette flowers are a beautifully seasoned cod emulsion. I can taste olive oil, potato and garlic – it’s wonderful.

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Hake kokotxas pil-pil, broadbeans £13. Kokotxas are essentially the throat/jowl of the fish and when cooked with oil in a circular motion it becomes a creamy emulsion. The taste is subtle yet unique but unmistakably fishy in a good way.

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Grilled octopus with piquillo sauce £16. The octopus tender and smoky but not overpowered by the coal, the acidity in the sweet piquillo was a lovely addition too.

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Solomillo Ibérico with pobre potatoes and egg yolk £11. The potatoes are creamy from their own starch and enriched with the egg yolk. But the star of the show is the solomillo which translates into pork loin and boy is it succulent and sweet – this is how a good piece of meat should be.

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Pata negra and heritage tomato salad with cucumber £6.50. ‘Pata Negra’ a colloquial term for black Iberian pigs because of their trademark black hooves, this ingredient has gone missing on this plate. We couldn’t seem to find it. The tomatoes however were impressive.

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Whole grilled turbot with txakoli sauce £60. Respect to our waiter who advised to suck the fins so nothing goes to waste, naturally I obliged and take advantage of all that flavour they purvey. With every mouthful you get an orchestra of flavours, the irresistible txakoli tang, some vinegar sharpness, nutty olive oil and the kiss of the coals.  Overall a rudimental thing to order.

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Even the eye balls were enjoyed.

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Here is the beautiful txuleta (£71). This in-house aged rib-eye which is blue when it is served but keeps cooking on that iron plate until and mouth-watering mid-rare. The inherent sweetness of the beef is apparent and what you get is intense beefy flavour in every bite.

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Fries with smoked paprika and aioli £6. It does what it exactly says on the tin, delicious little things.

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Desert time.

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Moscato D’Asti Runchet 2015, Piemonte (£18 for half a bottle). I’m not a fan of desert wine in general as I find it very overpowering for my palate. This is the complete opposite, semi-sweet, peachy, sparkling and the reason why I imbibe!

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Walnut ice cream £3. One scoop is a gastronomical sin… especially as it was so delectable.

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Valrhona chocolate fondant with mistika ice cream £6.5. Valrhona is a premium French chocolatier and mistika is the resin taken from the mastic tree and this concoction originates in Lebanon. What you get is a gummy-gelato like ice cream, combined with an unapologetically exuberant desert.

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The verdict;

When did I go? May 2016

The damage: Expect to pay £80-£100 for a proper feed with booze.
The good: Lurra is a charming place, smart interior and arguably a unique dining experience in London at the moment, well it’s certainly my first dining this way outside of the Basque country. The prime rib Rubia Galega and Txakoli Turbot are the restaurant’s mantra, rightly so as they will create perverse cravings after eaten the first time. The enthusiastic staff were unobtrusively eager to educate and the wine list is impeccable too.
The bad: Not a lot to be honest.
Rating: 4/5

Address: 9 Seymour Place, London W1H 5BA

Closest tube: Marble Arch/Oxford Circus

02077244545

bookings@lurra.co.uk

http://www.lurra.co.uk/

 

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