Harwood Arms – Review (Fulham) What happens when you combine a pub with gastronomy?

What happens when you combine a chef-patron from a two-Michelin-starred London restaurant to run a boozer in Fulham? A deservedly popular gastropub is born!  Brett Graham from The Ledbury (since 2005) is the man responsible who began cooking at a tender age of 15 in his native town of Newcastle of Australia back in 1994. During the latter part of 2008 Graham opened Fulham gastropub the Harwood Arms with TV chef Mike Robinson and publican Edwin Vaux. Two years later it wins a star. What I love about The Harwood Arms despite having a shiny Michelin status it has a down to earth good-ol boozer feel, yes it has draft on tap, wooden floors with matching tables and chairs that wouldn’t look out of place in your local. Granted it’s a bit more polished than your spit-and-saw-dust variety but the food itself isn’t innovate and complex as it doesn’t need to be, after all less is more in pub right? I came on a Friday evening with friend to catch-up, little did he know that I’d recommended this place for a mutual long-time compatriot who booked for an hour earlier to celebrate his partner’s birthday (he was oblivious to my booking too). Neither of them knew of each other’s attendance and the look on their faces when they crossed paths was hilarious! Still to this day they think it’s a crazy coincidence!

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The menu is a no-nonsense easy to follow affair. The motto ‘less is more’ is virtuous.

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I’m a sucker for good bread and this home-made Irish soda variant from their bar-snack menu hits the spot. (£2.50). It’s malty with layers molasses flavour – combine it with that creamy butter and crunchy sea salt and you’ll be in bread heaven.

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Coursodon Saint Joseph (£65) It’s brilliant juice with a wee kick from the tannins. So good that contents of 3 bottles were consumed!

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Harwood Arms Scotch Egg (£4.5). Knife and fork contact produces a reassuring crunch as you cut into this delightful scotch egg, the crisp and perfectly browned exterior holds beautifully seasoned venison. The meat itself is quite lean but is a purveyor of flavour and look at the yolk seduction! A pub is not complete unless it has a good scotch egg and it’s safe to say this one falls into that category.

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Wye Valley asparagus with Cornish crab, with watercress and pressed egg. Sweet, sweet dressed crab textured with crisp bread and all balanced out with those earthy greens.

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Berkshire wood pigeon faggots with carrots cooked in bone marrow with crispy shallots. Breaking into the caul fat the faggots were wrapped in was challenging and I can only describe it has chewing cling film! If you can get beyond that the meat inside was delicious. Porky parts I’m sure from the belly, shoulder and some bacon chucked in for good measure. (I think! that’s what I taste). In case you’re wondering the caul fat is the omentum membrane from the pig’s abdomen. Lovely.

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Onto the mains and first in is the loin of Tamworth pork with bacon marmalade, cider pickled cabbage and apple. The pork rich, moist and strangely springy in texture. Acidity balance in the cabbage and apple, umami, spice & sweetness in the bacon jam. Don’t get me started on how crispy the crackling was! Overall a joy to eat but what really made my taste buds dance was the bacon jam – so good that the recipe request was sent to the kitchen!

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Roast rump of Herdwick lamb, with white sprouting broccoli, goat’s curd and sunflower seeds. The lamb imparted wonderful sweet meaty flavour without the strong gamey taste it’s known for. I loved the tender broccoli too which were satisfying to eat. One bite and I was smitten.

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Token mash shot!

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Yorkshire rhubarb soufflé with marmalade ice cream. Fluffy, a rumour of egg and mild tartness layered in from the rhubarb. Very classy cooking.

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The verdict;

The damage: Expect to pay £35.50 for 2 courses or £42.50 for 3 courses excluding drinks
The good: I’m still thinking about when I’m going to dine here again, dreaming continuously about that flawless venison scotch egg, how supremely tender that roast rump of Herdwick lamb was, but let’s not forget that intensely satisfying bacon jam either! When an experience becomes evocative time beckons for you to return.
The bad: You’d often expect front of house to be extremely knowledgeable of ingredients and recipes shiny Michelin star or not. Perhaps I caught our waitress on the back foot but she seemed on the back-foot (innocently) and seemed bemused at after question asked around recipes or origin of produce. You can’t have it all I guess and a minor quibble in the grand scheme of things!
Rating: 4/5
http://www.harwoodarms.com

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