Gaulthier – Review (London Soho)

Gautier Soho formally named Corrigan’s is now run by head chef Alexis Gauthier who won a Michelin star at Roussillon in Pimlico. On the outside you wouldn’t believe this gaff is a restaurant, but a gorgeous Georgian town house, a remarkable one at that. Press the door bell to announce your arrival and you’ll gracefully greeted by front of house, I mean how pompous is that? As you enter the dining areas are spread across 2 floors, the decor is plush, the atmosphere genteel and the clientele are of the sophisticated variety.

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Naturally, we go for the tasting menu – it would be rude not to right?

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Pre-dinner drinks involve Kriek Boon fermented ale aged for 2 years in oak vats. Yes it’s damn good but at almost £13 a pop it’s punching about it’s weight!

IMG_6183The cherry flavoured Liefmans Cuvée Brut was my favourite – again at £13 a go you’d expect big things not a posh cherryade!

IMG_6186                    Pinot Noir our drink of choice – it was seriously good.IMG_6191

The smell of freshly baked bread wafts around, if this doesn’t get your appetite racing then we won’t get on! I went for the raisin variety and salted brioche which were both rather good.

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First up Duck Foie Gras with royal gala apples, muscat grapes and cider reduction. Rich, unctuous Foie balanced out by the sharpness from the fruit and a little cube of sweet, dough that resembled ginger bread just worked.
IMG_6189This was followed by Hand Dived Scottish Scallop; two ways – lobster coral and with girolle aka chanterelle mushroom. I have to say the latter came cooked to perfection, perfectly soft and translucent in the centre – it was outrageously good and arguably the best scallop I’ve in Soho. Have a look at this little hand dived beauty with girolle;

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Here’s the other part of the scallop dish. Not as triumphant as the former but very nice nonetheless, the lobster bisque it came in was well seasoned and deep in flavour.IMG_6194

Autumn Black Truffle, acquarello riso, brown butter and jus de roti. The risotto was a perfect consistency, with a good bite in the rice like how it should be. The flavours were very savoury from the jus and the waiter did not hold back my shaving an inordinate quantity of earthy, musky truffle onto the dish. Overall intensely satisfying and luxurious. My favourite dish of the night.

Truffle ready to be shaved and consumed. It  was a great touch, having truffle rained onto your risotto freshly shaved by the white gloved waiter!

IMG_6196                                                This is the risotto pre-truffle.

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And here is the money shot with truffle

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Next up we have the Wild South Coast Sea Bass, crispty skin, salsify & leek, vermouth & fish reduction. A lovely elegant dish, fish cooked to perfection with a shard of crispy skin standing proudly. The salsify was well seasoned and the potato crisp a nice touch resting on the leeks. A well excecuted dish but not my favourite.

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Loin of Highland Venison, poached williams pear, caramelised pumpkin, truffle & celeriac puree, venison jus. I’ve never had this combination before but it was gorgeous – every mouthful just tasted like autumn, the pumkin was sweet, the jus was deliciously umami, celeriac silky and what seems like brussel sprout leaves tender.

IMG_6206            I couldn’t resist a cheeky espresso in between courses, life’s too short right?

IMG_6207Then comes the cheese – if this is your thing you’ll be in your element and anyone that knows me it wouldn’t  feature my proverbial last meal! Of course it’s of the mature French variety. IMG_6211

Autumnal Plums – roasted and compote with mirabelle sorbet. I’ve never tasted plums so juicy and full of flavour. Each mouthful was an explosion of delicious fruit. The little cube of sponge cake and sorbet were just token gestures of the plate, the former tasting quite stale which was a shame.

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So here’s the Dark Chocolate: Golden Louis XV, dark chocolate mousse & crunchy praline. The exterior colour is deep, rich, shiny, beautiful; filled with chocolate mousse and meringue. Apparently this gorgeous work of art is a special tribute to Gauthier’s mentors – Alain Ducasse. This desert is a show stealer, the is praline hazel-nutty crunch, ganache silky smooth, topped with a gold leaf and the finish super chocolatey. Utterly awesome and a chocolate fanatics wet dream.

IMG_6217No such meal is complete without petit fours and we end in style with chocolate truffles, raspberry/yuzu tart-lette and chocolate financier. IMG_6222

Every’s favourite was the raspberry/yuzu tart-lette.

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Mr Gaultier I salut you for having such amazing pastry chefs and presenting us with such an amazing chocolate freebie!

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The verdict;

The damage: Expect to pay £130 per head with drinks with the tasting menu
The good: Come here for sure for a bit of pay-day indulgence, classic techniques delivered using seasonal ingredients, eye-catchingly presented by knowledgeable and smart waiting staff with door bell ringing pompous-ness  (adds to the experience).  
The bad: The atmosphere is a bit muted and sombre.
Rating: 4/5
http://www.gauthiersoho.co.uk
21 Romilly St  London W1D 5AF
020 7494 3111

 

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